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New TM owner

Sheena5305

Member
This weekend we finally picked up our 1st (of many if the other half had his way) TM Dexter. Ill be honest its a little overwhelming but how could you not love the little stinker?

WP_20140309_002.jpg

Even if he does wait till you've been stood outside with him for 30 mins to trot indoors and wee on the cleanest bit of bedding he can find or steal your shoe just as you go to put it on to leave the house!
 

musicdeb

Well-Known Member
Welcome aboard to you and your new baby~ What is his name? How old?

Since this is your first mastiff puppy, hope this helps:

The following tips/suggestions are based on my experience as a dog mommy, forum member’s posts and volunteering at an animal shelter for a year.

*CRATE THE PUP

You want to crate train the pup. Make sure you have a blanket, stuffed animal (about their size) and white noise (ticking clock or ipod with soft music) so the pup can sleep. The pup is used to cuddling with siblings.

*SECURE THE PUP NEAR THE FAMILY

You want to keep the pup in a room with a family member. Mastiffs need to be near their family members.

*FOOD

Find out what kind of food the shelter/rescue/breeder was feeding the pup and continue to feed it to the pup until you transition to a newer food, if you want. Most shelters/rescues use the cheapest food, meaning it is not very good for the pup.

Slow transition to the new food is as follows to prevent diarrhea. If at any time during the transition, the pup has diarrhea return to previous amounts of food per feeding.

Amount per feeding:

Day 1-4 ¾ cup of old food and ¼ cup of new food.

Day 5-9 ½ cup of old food and ½ cup of new food.

Day 10-14 ¾ cup of new food and ¼ cup of old food

Day 15 Start 100% of new food

Generally, mastiffs are allergic to grain and chicken found in kibble. You can check www.dogfoodadvisor.com www.dogfoodanalysis.com for dog food ratings and customer feedback.


http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2013/05/31/large-dog-feeding-mistakes.aspx

You may want to check out the raw diet for your pup. Check out the sub forum on raw diet that has a wealth of information. It is not recommended to feed the pup kibble and raw food. Dr. Becker talks about this in one of her videos.

Check out Dr. Becker’s videos on youtube.com for a lot of great information regarding the raw diet. Here is Part 1 there are 3 parts to the series. Well worth the time to watch the videos.

[video=youtube;Qx2YIIpF4cc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qx2YIIpF4cc[/video]

*PUP NOT EATING WHEN YOU FIRST BRING THEM HOME

They not used to their new environment and this is a natural behavior. Take the pup to a quiet place at meal times and sit and hand feed the pup. This will help the pup to eat when they are placed in a calm atmosphere, help you to bond with the pup and helps the pup establish trust with you. As they become settled, they will naturally follow your routine.

*PROTECT THE PUP FROM DISEASE

Keep the pup in your yard and place newspapers down where they will walk on the ground. Keep the pup away from dog areas unless they have had their 2nd set of shots, leaving the pup prone to infection with Parvo or other illnesses. This is very important!

*HOUSE TRAINING YOUR PUP

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/dog-behavior/house-training-your-puppy

*SOCIALIZE, SOCIALIZE AND SOCIALIZE SOME MORE

Socialize after they’ve had at least 2 round of shots preferably 3 rounds of shots to be safe. Prior to the 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] or 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] round of shots, keep the pup in your own yard. If that is not possible, bring newspapers with you for the pup to walk on. Avoid dog parks and areas with heavy traffic of animals.

*TEETHING

The pup will chew on anything they can find unless you re-direct the chewing. Provide frozen washcloths or small towels, nylabones, ropes, deer antlers, Kongs with frozen yogurt so they can chew to their heart’s desire. Some people use boxes, be aware that the pup will chew all boxes.

*TRAINING YOUR PUP

Start basic commands. Train for about 5 minutes per day and slowly increase the training time. Teach one command at a time. Once they master one command, move onto another command.


Number one command is sit. Teach the pup to sit, by placing a treat in front of his head and move it to the back causing him to sit to get the treat. When the pup sits, tell them good sit and give them the treat.

Second command should be "focus/look" This will help you tremendously when the pup is over 100 lbs. Put the pup into sit. With a treat in your hand (let the pup smell it), put the treat up to your eyes and tell the pup to look or focus. They may only do this for about 1-2 seconds. As soon as they look at your eyes, tell them good look or good focus and give the treat. Generally, mastiffs do not like to look anyone in the eyes for long because that means a challenge to them. Titan is up to 55 seconds of looking me in the eyes.

Other commands are "down/off", "leave it," "wait" (short pause), "stay" (pausing until you release) and "quiet/calm".

When you are training and when the pup does not do as you ask, then tell him no in a calm, stern voice and redirect back to the command. The only time a stern and loud NO should be used is when they are doing something that can cause harm to themselves or others.


Praise is the most powerful tool you have and dogs WANT to please you. Show them clearly what you want, notice and praise when they comply, and learning goes much faster and pleasant for you both.

Mastiffs can be extremely stubborn and if you get frustrated with them, they will shut down. Mastiffs do not do well with yelling or hitting. Hitting can result in some unwanted mastiff behavior meaning fear aggression, which equals biting.

*LEASH TRAINING

Your pup will most likely not like the leash. Have the pup wear it around the house for a few hours each day and reward when the pup wears the leash with no issues.

If the dog pulls, do not walk until they stop and turn to look at you, then thank them and start walking again. If they nip, put them away from you so they don't get attention--don't make it a game.


*PUPPY BITING/NIPPING/AROUND CHILDREN

Do not allow children and pup on the floor together. Pup will see them as playmates and nip at them. Picture the pup playing with their siblings.

Keep the pup on leash while the children are on the floor so you can have control of the pup. Pup and children should not be allowed to play alone.

If you puppy is biting/nipping, then try the following. This behavior can sometimes take a lot of patience and consistency in training.

They bite because that is how they played with their siblings.
When they bite, tell them “OW” in a high-pitched voice and “NO” in a stern, calm voice. NEVER HIT OR YELL AT A MASTIFF. They will shut down on you and ignore you.

When the pup stops biting, tell them to sit and reward. Tell him “good sit.”

Have the children hand fed the pup and help with training, i.e. teach the pup to sit, stay and come. This helps the pup to see them as non-playmates but as people in authority. These activities are great bonding exercises.

*EXERCISE

Puppies can exercise with natural movements and free play like running, stretching, playing on soft surfaces (grass and dirt). This type of exercise is actually healthy and good for their developing bodies but they do need to be able to pace themselves.

Structured exercise/play on hard surfaces and where they don't have they ability to pace themselves is where you need to be very careful. This type of exercise could harm the pup’s joints and bones. Puppies should not do any heavy exercise or walking for the first 1-2 years.

Stairs should be maneuvered while on leash (even in the house) especially going down the stairs. Stairs should have carpet or rubber matting to give the pup traction.

Most mastiffs (can be very lazy but they still need to exercise. Puppies should not be walked for more than 15-20 minutes for the first 1-3months and do your best to avoid heavy, excessive running or jumping for at least the first 1-2 years. Generally, the amount of time to exercise is 10 minutes per each month of age.

Excessive jumping, running and long walks (1-2 hours) can cause hip, elbow, knee and joint injuries.

*YOUR PUP AND HEAT (NOT THE FEMALE HEAT)

Remember, mastiffs do not tolerate heat. In the heat, reduce walk/exercise times. Have clean water available at all times. I freeze towels to either place on Titan or put on the floor for him to lie on in the summer to cool him off. Buy a kiddies’ pool for the pup to play in to keep cool.

*DE-SEXING YOUR PUP

Mastiffs should not be neutered/spayed until 18 months to 2 years. NO MATTER what the vet says. Early neutering can cause growth problems and health issues.

[video=youtube;enPCZA1WFKY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enPCZA1WFKY[/video]

Enjoy your baby! Have lots of patience! The pup will reward you with love and loyalty!
 

Sheena5305

Member
Thanks for the warm welcome and thanks @musicdeb for all the information, he's called dexter and he's just turned 11 weeks old. I have to admit crate training is the one thing we are struggling with, if he's going in the car then he's perfectly well behaved but as soon as we put him in it at home he soils it and rams the side trying to throw it over all the while squealing like a stuck pig!
 

musicdeb

Well-Known Member
Remain consistent with the crate training, it will happen. Does he have stuffed animals inside to snuggle with? Does he have mind-provoking toys inside the crate, like a kong with frozen yogurt or an ice cube with treats frozen in the middle? Is the crate near the family? It helps Dexter to be near his family.

Teach him the crate is his place, his happy place. Put treats way inside of the crate so he has to go in to get them. Praise and reward him when he goes in. Since he is fighting the crate, use a high value treat to entice him in the crate and reward him.
 

Sheena5305

Member
Remain consistent with the crate training, it will happen. Does he have stuffed animals inside to snuggle with? Does he have mind-provoking toys inside the crate, like a kong with frozen yogurt or an ice cube with treats frozen in the middle? Is the crate near the family? It helps Dexter to be near his family.

Teach him the crate is his place, his happy place. Put treats way inside of the crate so he has to go in to get them. Praise and reward him when he goes in. Since he is fighting the crate, use a high value treat to entice him in the crate and reward him.

Thanks musicdeb, he has a piece of vetbed and a stuffed toy that the breeder gave us - hadnt thought of the Kong as he hasnt shown any interest in it even when its been stuffed with treats or food. His crate has been in the bedroom at the side of the bed but hes not having any of it and maybe wrongly i havent forced it the last couple of nights for fear of creating a negative experience and making the situation worse but will try your suggestions over the weekend and see if we can turn it around! :pray:
 

musicdeb

Well-Known Member
Your welcome~ Remain consistent with motivational rewards. Give him mind inspiring things to do in his crate, i.e. the kong with frozen yogurt, ice cubes with treats frozen in the middle, frozen hand towels to chew on.

What is he not having with the crate at the side of bed? He's not going in the crate even though it's next to the bed.

Is the stuffed animal bigger than him or about his size? He needs to cuddle like he did with his siblings. Put a piece of your clothing that you have worn in the crate with him.
 

Sheena5305

Member
What is he not having with the crate at the side of bed? He's not going in the crate even though it's next to the bed.

Sorry - a UK/Manchester phrase for 'still wont accept/not happy about it'

The soft toy is smaller than him but smells like the rest of the litter struggling to find anything thats the size of him without visiting a funfair!
 

musicdeb

Well-Known Member
Ah, gotcha! You're so funny, have to visit a funfair to find a stuffed animal big enough for him. hehehehehehe
 

broccolini

Well-Known Member
My older TM hated her crate. She would yell and bite at the bars for a long time and she would never go in voluntarily. Eventually she got better with it but there was a lot of drama. She never soiled her crate though. I'm not sure how I would have handled that.

We were lucky with her low level of destructiveness. She's been out of the crate since she was about 5 months old and she's been very well behaved. Our male puppy loves his crate. His breeder had one open with the litter all the time and they would pile up in it and take naps. I think that helped. He's way more destructive than our female so I'm glad he likes his crate. He might need to stay in it forever. :p
 

DMikeM

Well-Known Member
For my Boerboels I had to cover the crate with a blanket top make it a den before they started to like being in it. Jade never soiled it but Odi did so I removed all bedding and blankets for a day and only left him his favorite toy. He did not soil that crate so I put the bedding back in and now he is content with it. He brings pretty much all of his toys into the crate on his own so whatever he has in it I leave alone as long as it makes him happy.
 

musicdeb

Well-Known Member
For my Boerboels I had to cover the crate with a blanket top make it a den before they started to like being in it. Jade never soiled it but Odi did so I removed all bedding and blankets for a day and only left him his favorite toy. He did not soil that crate so I put the bedding back in and now he is content with it. He brings pretty much all of his toys into the crate on his own so whatever he has in it I leave alone as long as it makes him happy.
I just love Odi! Takes his toys in his crate on his own... :)