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Would you a adopt a grown neo?

Found a great rescue that specializes in mastiff breeds , I've always wanted a neo and they have a couple of adult 18 months to 2 year old females, but just wanted to know everyone's opinion on adopting adult dogs, specifically mastiffs, any challenges?
 

angelbears

Well-Known Member
There can be a challenge even if you get a pup. Some Neo's can have a hard temp, they are just wired that way. If this is a good rescue they should have a very good ideal of the dogs temp. especially since these are adults.

Some rescues take a little time to fully trust their new family but once they do they are fabulous dogs. I highly recommend rescuing. On the plus side they should already be potty trained and past the major destructive stage.
 

DennasMom

Well-Known Member
See if the rescue will let you take one of the pups home for a weekend... that will give you time to see how things fit, and if you think it will work. Keeping in mind that it will take a long time for the dog to really relax and bond with you - but an over-night visit will be much more eye-opening than an hour or two in a neutral location.
 

musicdeb

Well-Known Member
I've always rescued pups to add to the family, most have been over a year old.

May I ask the name of the rescue?

Here are tips/suggestions to help you with your new pup/family member. The following tips/suggestions are based on my experience (I rescued my pup in Feb. 2012 and volunteered at an animal shelter for a year) and forum posts from other members. Basically, I*m lazy and didn*t want to continue retyping the following tips/suggestions.

Please check out this link with some helpful tips as well.

https://www.localbark.com/bark-all-...kes-adopters-make-when-bringing-home-new-dog/


*First, I*d like to say it generally takes a re-homed pup 8-12 months to fully accept and trust their new family.

*The new pup will be stressed due to the environmental change and they may not eat or socialize much. Most will sit in their crate in the corner because they are stressed. Do not force the pup to eat or come out of the crate. The pup will let you know when they are ready. It helps the new pup for you to sit by the crate and talk to them and give them high value treats, i.e. such as cooked chicken, hamburger or hot dogs. They may or may not eat the treats.

A rescue requires TONS of patience, consistency in training and LOTS of love.

*BONDING WITH NEW PUP

The family will need to bond with the new pup. Bonding can be established by walking the pup, brushing the pup, hand feeding the pup, training the pup and good old cuddling with the pup.

*HISTORY OF THE NEW PUP

Many times when you rescue a pup, you do not know their history. Generally, the pup is at the rescue or shelter because of owner surrender. Many times, mastiffs are surrendered because the previous owner didn*t know they would get as big as they do, they are messy because of their drool, or they no longer have time for the pup.

*INTRODUCING NEW PUP TO OTHER FAMILY PUPS

Generally, if you plan to rescue a pup, let the current pup(s) meet the new pup before signing on the dotted line to rescue the pup. I have seen many pups returned to the shelter/rescue because the current pup did not accept them.L

If you have other pups, then you need to introduce the pups on neutral ground at least a couple of times before bringing the new pup home.


*CRATE FOR THE NEW PUP

It is highly recommended to crate the new pup. Look at it as if it is their own little room where they can go to decompress when stressed. Do not use the crate as a punishment tool. Place a blanket, towel, pillow, and/or stuffed animal in the crate. Be aware that some pups do not like items in the crate with them but if they do, it will help the pup to relax.


*POTTY TRAINING

The pup may have to be re-trained to potty outside especially if they have lived in a cage at the shelter/rescue. If the pup has been in the shelter for more than a couple of days, they have learned to potty on the concrete in the cage.

*FOOD

Find out what kind of food the shelter/rescue/breeder was feeding the pup and continue to feed it to the pup until you transition to a newer food because most shelters/rescues/breeders use the cheapest food, meaning it is not very good for the pup.

Slow transition to the new food is as follows to prevent diarrhea. If at any time during the transition, the pup has diarrhea return to previous amounts of food per feeding. If you are switching flavors made by the same manufacturer, you should not have to do a slow transition.

Amount per feeding:

Day 1-4 ¾ cup of old food and ¼ cup of new food.

Day 5-9 ½ cup of old food and ½ cup of new food.

Day 10-14 ¾ cup of new food and ¼ cup of old food

Day 15 Start 100% of new food

Generally, mastiffs are allergic to grain and chicken found in kibble. You can check www.dogfoodadvisor.com for dog food ratings and customer feedback. Mastiff puppies should eat Large Breed adult or all stages food because most puppy food has high calcium and phosphorous levels that cause fast growth. Slow and steady growth for a healthy mastiff. Protein in the food is not an issue unless the pup has kidney issues.

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+1659&aid=652

Dog Food FAQs: Protein

Check out Acana Regionals, Wellness Core, Castor & Pollux Grain Free, Earthborn Holistics, Fromm*s, Innova Natures Table or Taste of the Wild grain free. Chewy.com is a great place to order dog food and they offer free shipping.

You may want to check out the raw diet for your pup. Raw diet can be fed to young pups. Check out the sub forum on raw diet that has a wealth of information. It is not recommended to feed the pup kibble (one with grains) and raw food. Do your research re: raw diet and form your own opinion.

*PUP NOT EATING WHEN YOU FIRST BRING THEM HOME

The pup is not used to their new environment and this is a natural behavior. Take the pup to a quiet place at meal times and sit and hand feed the pup. This will help the pup to eat when they are placed in a calm atmosphere and it helps you to bond with the pup and helps the pup to establish trust with you. As they become settled, they will naturally follow your routine.

*TRAINING

Start basic commands and reward with motivational treats (fav food or fav toy). For an older pup, train for about 10 minutes a day to start and increase training time as the pup starts to trust you more. For a younger pup, train for about 5 minutes a day to start. Once they master one command, move onto another command.


Number one command is sit. Teach the pup to sit, by placing a treat in front of his head and move it to the back causing him to sit to get the treat. When the pup sits, tell them good sit and give them the treat.

Second command should be "focus/look" This will help you tremendously when the pup is over 100 lbs. Put the pup into sit. With a treat in your hand (let the pup smell it), put the treat up to your eyes and tell the pup to look or focus. They may only do this for about 1-2 seconds. As soon as they look at your eyes, reward them. Generally, mastiffs do not like to look anyone in the eyes for long because that means a challenge to them.

Other commands are "down/off", "leave it," "wait" (short pause), "stay" (pausing until you release), drop it and "quiet/calm".

When you are training and when the pup does not do as you ask, then tell him no in a calm, stern voice and redirect back to the command. The only time a stern and loud NO should be used is when they are doing something that can cause harm to themselves or others.


Praise is the most powerful tool you have and the dog WANTS to please you. Show them clearly what you want, notice and praise when they comply, and learning goes much faster and pleasant for you both.

Mastiffs can be extremely stubborn and if you get frustrated with them, they will shut down and stop listening to you. Mastiffs do not do well with yelling or hitting. Hitting can result in some unwanted mastiff behavior meaning fear aggression, which equals biting.


*SOCIALIZE, SOCIALIZE AND SOCIALIZE SOME MORE

Do not take your pup to dog parks until you have learned his body language. Know when the pup is getting stressed or excited around humans or other pups. Walk your pup at a regular park on leash to learn his body language.

*EXERCISE

For young pups:

Structured exercise/play on hard surfaces and where they don't have they ability to pace themselves is where you need to be very careful. This type of exercise could harm the pup*s joints and bones. Puppies should not do any excessive exercise, i.e. walking, jumping, running and navigate stairs for the first 12 months to avoid injury.

Stairs should be maneuvered while on leash (even in the house) especially going down the stairs. Stairs should have carpet or rubber matting to give the pup traction. Mastiffs should be assisted up and down stairs until they are about age 12 months to prevent injury.

For all pups:

Most mastiffs can be very lazy but they still need to exercise. Generally, the amount of time to exercise is 5 minutes per each month of age.


*CHILDREN IN THE HOME

Until you know how the new pup will react to the children, leave them on leash while in the house. Teach your children to bond with the new pup by hand feeding the pup, brushing the pup, walking the pup in the house or your own yard and training the pup.

**DO NOT allow the children to get on the floor to play with the pup.

**DO NOT allow the children to play around the pup while the pup is eating their food or high value treat or their favorite toy.

*RESOURCE GUARDING

The new pup may have resource guarding due to their life in a shelter or rescue.
If the pup has resource guarding, here*s a great article: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/dog-behavior/food-guarding

This type of behavior can take up to 4-6 months to correct and requires a lot of patience and consistency. During this time, DO NOT ALLOW children or other pups around the new pup while they are eating or enjoying a treat/toy.

Do a forum search for guarding or resource guarding. A number of members have had experience with this behavior.

*DE-SEXING YOUR DOG (Younger pups less than 18-24 months of age)

Health Issues Linked to Spaying and Neutering Dogs


Enjoy your new family member~
 

JungleGina

Member
My very first mastiff was a 2 yr. old Neo that I rescued after only seeing her on the internet. The mastiff was in TX and I am in central FL, and the mastiff was in Miami. That mastiff was an awesome dog and turned me on to mastiffs from then on (previously was a Rottie fan, but mastiffs seem so much mellower). I never regretted the decision and she was the best dog I ever had. Ask lots of questions and address your concerns upfront since the rescue usually has some idea of the dog's history and temperament from the owner or foster.

I just rescued a 5 yr. old EM at Christmas and he'd been in foster since August so they were fully aware of his behavior and health issues. He wasn't even the dog I was originally interested in, however, he had specific needs that they wanted fulfilled too and wanted to match him with an adoptive home that could meet his health needs. So I ended up getting a wonderful dog who had "special needs" of requiring holistic care (due to vaccine allergies) and home made diet (due to tummy stress issues). Those were things I was already doing with my BM so that made me a good match for him. He is an awesome dog and again I have not regretted the decision.
 

angelbears

Well-Known Member
My very first mastiff was a 2 yr. old Neo that I rescued after only seeing her on the internet. The mastiff was in TX and I am in central FL, and the mastiff was in Miami. That mastiff was an awesome dog and turned me on to mastiffs from then on (previously was a Rottie fan, but mastiffs seem so much mellower). I never regretted the decision and she was the best dog I ever had. Ask lots of questions and address your concerns upfront since the rescue usually has some idea of the dog's history and temperament from the owner or foster.

I just rescued a 5 yr. old EM at Christmas and he'd been in foster since August so they were fully aware of his behavior and health issues. He wasn't even the dog I was originally interested in, however, he had specific needs that they wanted fulfilled too and wanted to match him with an adoptive home that could meet his health needs. So I ended up getting a wonderful dog who had "special needs" of requiring holistic care (due to vaccine allergies) and home made diet (due to tummy stress issues). Those were things I was already doing with my BM so that made me a good match for him. He is an awesome dog and again I have not regretted the decision.

Thank you for taking in the dog that needed you, not the dog you thought you needed. Funny how things seem to work out. THANK YOU!