Hope this helps. It can take a rehomed dog 8-12 months to totally trust you. They require TONS of patience, consistency in training and LOTS of love.
TESTED TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL FOSTERING & INTRODUCING A NEW DOG TO YOUR HOME
These are guidelines and info compiled from time fostering for several rescues plus tips a pro suggested when our home began to have multiple terrier-types, since controlling excitement becomes key to the safety of all dogs when you add a new dog to your home, and even more so when it's a terrier or young dog. Hopefully they will be as helpful to as they've been for others and will assist you with a smooth transition.
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Introduce your dog(s) to the foster/new dog for the first time on neutral territory, NOT in your home. Have a friend of family member help you walk them together up and down the street in parallel fashion before taking them into the home. This is called "Parallel Walking" and is a great way to safely introduce two dogs that don't know each other. Walk them on either side of the street, humans in between so the dogs are ALWAYS on the outside. As they seem more and more relaxed with each other you can narrow the gap until the are ready for the sniff. DO NOT EVER HAVE DOGS MEET FACE-TO-FACE, "chicken" style. Allow them the space to arrange themselves so they can meet at arcing angles. If this is not possible, put your dog(s) either outside or block them off in the home so they do not overwhelm the new dog when it first enters. We suggest that you let them greet through an x-pen or strong metal baby gate, with praise and treats to both sides. If you have multiple dogs only allow one dog to come to the gate at a time. Keeping control of the situation and keeping the excitement level low (watch for relaxed half-mast ears, tails held at or below the line of the back, soft eyes, tail NOT wagging vigorously) is the goal at all times. When excitement escalates (prolonged vocalization, especially if increasing in pitch or volume or standing on hind legs to wrestle) stop play and separate the dogs until they shake off some of the excitement and calm down. Like all mammals, when dogs are in a state of excited arousal they tend to forget manners and rules. This is not a situation you want. When excitement is high it is important to ensure all dogs are at least 2 feet apart and under control. If they are too excited to be trusted to follow commands, secure the dog from the others for it's own safety. Dogs have a personal space zone of about 1 foot and when another dog inadvertently enters that space during excitement, redirected aggression can take place, even among dogs that are otherwise best friends. This is why controlling excitement levels, strong leadership, and ensuring safety zones are very important. Love is NOT enough. Your dogs depend on you to be be a good leader, which means being mindful of their excitement levels, space zones, mental states, and taking action as needed so they don't have to.
IMPORTANT: Crate and secure the foster/new dog in it's own room and let them rest and adjust to their new setting for the first day or two. They need time to take in to their new surroundings and decompress from the stressful environment they just left. Potty and return them to their crate. An x-pen around the crate is handy as the foster dog can then choose to come out when it feels comfortable. Don't be surprised if a foster/new dog needs to sleep a lot initially, especially if they are fresh from a shelter or long-term kennel situation. This is how dogs process through stressful events. Keeping the foster apart from your own dogs for the first two weeks is ideal and certainly until it has been seen by a vet to ensure many of the usual common minor things dogs can pick up in shelters and kennels--from viruses to worms to fungus--are not passed to your own dogs. Potty them in a separate area, if possible, and pick up feces immediately. Do not allow them to share a water bowl with your own dogs and always feed the foster dog in it's crate or behind it's gate, and feed after your own dogs.
How soon you can introduce the foster to playtime with your own dogs depends on how smoothly the introduction went, their mutual energy levels, ages, size, how socialized each dog is and their individual personalities. Dogs that lack socialization and training will take longer before being ready to introduce to play with your own dogs and need to be taught rules first (behind a gate, where your own dogs can observe the foster/new dog learning but not interfere) just as the foster/new dog can watch you working your own dogs. This helps the new dog to understand it's place in your home and rank in the pack and learn self-control as well as boosting your leadership with ALL the dogs. It's worth the extra time to go slow because a bad experience will set the dogs back and then it takes even more time and effort to achieve a successful introduction. Some dogs will just not be able to safely play together or will not have interest in playing together. Always supervise closely to ensure you can stop rough or too-excitable play BEFORE it escalates out of hand.
Crating or otherwise safely securing the dog at night or when leaving the home is a requirement. It will give your dogs a break and also protect your home from accidents and/or destructiveness. At night, the crate can be moved into your bedroom.*
Your foster/new dog dog should never be out of your sight in your home for the first week, minimum, longer for some dogs. Leash the foster dog to you if working around the home and you can't contain the dog to an area you can watch. If you can't watch it -- secure it! (behind a gate or in a crate) REMEMBER: Your dogs were there first. It doesn't hurt a foster dog to crate or secure it in a room for short periods when necessary to give your own dogs a break. Always make the crate a pleasurable thing, NOT a punishment. It is a training tool to help ensure the safety of the new dog as well as your own dogs. Crates are not meant to be used for all-day confinement.
Be very cautious when taking a dog new to your home off of your property. Until the dog has bonded with you it is very likely to bolt at the first opportunity. Some dogs back up when frightened or startled and can slip out of their collars. A properly fitted martingale ("no-slip", or "sighthound") collar can help prevent this. Premier is an excellent brand and this site has great prices on dozens of colors: faithfulPetProducts.com
Be cautious when exposing the foster/new dog to children and strangers. Get to know the dog a little first. In most cases, we do not know the dog's history and so we cannot predict how it will react in some situations. Be aware that, if the dog bites, even if through fear, it may have to be euthanized, even if it was not really the dog's fault. Well-meaning strangers will often bend over and try to pet a dog on the head. Please politely discourage this, as it is a threatening movement to the dog. Ask people to turn sideways and allow the dog to approach them, and to rub the dog's chest rather than place their hands over the dog's head. An alternative is to ask them to crouch, turned sideways, rather than stand, no eye contact. Some people just won't listen and if the dog is tense and uncomfortable with a stranger's approach you need to be prepared to quickly and politely place yourself between the stranger and your dog. This is an act of leadership your dog will expect and find reassuring. Children are often very frightening to dogs of ALL sizes because they move erratically, shout or screech, tend to stare directly into dog's eyes, and want to grab them around the neck to hug them.
Feeding:
Your foster dog should always be fed in a crate. New dogs should be fed away from other dogs until you know how they react with food. Be sure dogs do not interfere with each other during feeding, and when you have more than two you need to feed in pack order. Please do not over-feed; a fat dog has a shorter lifespan and multiple health problems.
Housetraining:
Potty the foster/new dog outside on a leash or in a restricted area until it has adjusted to the new surroundings and you feel comfortable that it will come into the home when called.
Don't assume the foster/new dog is house-trained -- changes in homes and families are stressful for the dog and it may "forget" or need some time to adjust to your routine. Praise when foster dog does its business outside, don't just let it out and assume it knows what to do. Go with, give the command ("do your business", "go potty", etc.) and as soon as it happens, quietly praise. Best practice is to assume the dog has no training and proceed as if a puppy, with frequent opportunities to go outside: after meals, playtime, upon waking up in the morning and from naps, after excitement. Some dogs just need a refresher to get back on track. NEVER PUNISH A DOG FOR SOILING INAPPROPRIATELY. This is ALWAYS your own fault, never the dog's. Secure the dog and quietly clean it up out of the dog's sight, using a cleaner with enzymes
General Guidelines:
§ Do not reach over the dog's head to pet it as they may perceive this to be a threat. Instead, pet the dog under the chin or on the chest. For the same reason, NEVER lean forward and hover over a dog that does not know you really well or grab it around the neck to hug.
§ If foster/new dog is shy or fearful don't make direct eye contact or stare. Again, the dog may consider this to be a threat or challenge. Use calming signals, such as squatting sideways and yawning, and allow the dog to approach you first to sniff. Allow the dog to press against you to make contact, rather than try to pet it.
§ Do not pick up a foster/new dog that doesn't know you well! This is good way to get nipped, especially by smaller dogs that may have been handled roughly in the past. When you MUST lift a dog, do it slowly and gently and be sure to support under both the forelegs and the hindquarters. It's not comfortable to be suspended by the belly and many females that have had litters find this especially painful.
§ Teach the dog basic manners - "sit", "down", "leave it," "wait" (short pause), "stay" (pausing until you release) "quiet" and how to walk on a leash.
Good manners help the dog become more adoptable! Always use praise and something positive and watch for the dog offering good behaviors and praise them, rather than just noticing what you don't want and scolding for it. Praise is the most powerful tool you have and dogs WANT to please you. Show them clearly what you want, notice and praise when they comply, and learning goes much faster and pleasant for you both. Aversion, or punishment, methods (no matter how seemingly mild) have the drawback of not showing the dog what you DO want and some dogs simply ignore them. Withholding what the dog wants, whether it is praise or attention or a treat or a toy, is an effective way to correct undesirable behavior. If the dog pulls, do not walk until they stop and turn to look at you, then thank them and start walking again. If they nip, put them away from you so they don't get attention--don't make it a game. When puppies are too rough with other dogs they ignore the puppies and don't give them what they want until the puppy behaves correctly. They are patient and you must be, too. Leaders are patient.
Discourage the new dog from getting on the furniture and on your bed. This provides a clear signal to the new/foster dog and to your own dog(s) that the new dog has a lower status in the pack. This is reassuring to your own dog(s) and also to the new/foster dog who is trying to figure out where he fits in. Furniture access is a perk that is earned AFTER the dog shows it understands and follows house rules and respect for their position in the pack. Rather than pushing/pulling the dog off, call them off (no treat) with lots of enthusiasm and excitement. The moment they hit the floor, be lavish with praise and attention. Be consistent and very quickly the dog learns you are happy when they are NOT on the furniture. This method works much faster and safer than pushing or pulling a dog off each time, and teaches your dog that you are pleased when they stay on the floor. We owners must remember that dogs WANT to please us and when they do wrong it is never on purpose.
When you add dogs with terrier bloodlines to your home you are adding fire and fun. You are also adding a dog that, regardless of size, has a capacity to flash over into extreme excitement and redirection very quickly when highly aroused--even if they are lifetime buddies. It can be two dogs going after a squirrel or a ball and slamming into each other or another dog pushing one into another, or just wrestling that became too rough and vocal. Though they may otherwise be best friends, in the heat of the moment one dog will redirect that excited energy onto the other dog--and you have a scrap that other dogs can quickly be drawn into. If there are underlying pack order problems or weak leadership, these can become very serious. This is why it is so important to be a good student of canine body language--watch for intense stares, sudden freezes, increasing tension, louder vocalization, rough play standing up, etc-- and have control over the dogs and the excitement level at all times. When dogs are excited they don't listen very well, so it is important to secure the dogs apart BEFORE the need to do so. Supervise play carefully, especially among dogs of differing sizes and with dogs that have less control over themselves. Keeping your dogs in Roman-style harnesses (with the strap along the spine) is most helpful because you can handle the dogs during excitement with minimal risk to yourself and risk of harm to them, as you can draw them apart without putting pressure on the throat, which will increase aggression (even if there was none initially), and without causing them pain, which will also increase aggression, or damaging the delicate throat tissue or yanking vertebrae out of place (very, very common injury owners are not aware of). Terriers respond to pain by inflicting more pain. Therefore you must have a means to get control of the dog without causing harm to itself, another dog or you.
When using the harness for walking always clip the lead to the top center of the O-ring located at the dog's chest, NOT the D-ring on the dog's back. This will afford you much more control if the dog darts after another animal and lessen their ability to pull.
Avoid Flexi-type leashes. These leashes seem very convenient but have two major drawbacks: they teach the dog to pull (because the dog becomes used to feeling constant tension from the leash) and they are the worst possible leash option for safely controlling dogs of any size. The handle is easily yanked from an owner's hand and dogs are frequently injured and killed when the cords snap, the locking mechanism fails to engage, or the owner cannot get control of their beloved dog in time to prevent a tragedy. Please don't risk this heartache. Buy a quality 6-foot leather leash and learn how to properly use it. This lead will last a lifetime and is the safest option for your beloved dog, whatever it's size.
§ Stop play when it goes on for more than several minutes, gets too loud, too rough, or it appears one dog is not enjoying the game. They dogs should take turns who gets to win. If this isn't happening, they are not playing, they are challenging pack roles. Remember that the more dogs in the home the more critical handling all the dogs in pack order becomes. DO NOT EXPECT OR ALLOW THE DOGS TO "WORK IT OUT" AMONG THEMSELVES. That is YOUR job! Do not expect older dogs to teach puppies manners--this is YOUR job!
§ High-value items like rawhides, bones, special toys, should never be left lying around. These should be given to dogs only when they are secured from the foster(s)/new dog and possibly even the personal dogs from each other (depending on your past experience with your own dogs), and removed and put away when playtime is finished before all dogs are allowed to rejoin.
§ Remember that the dog that instigates trouble or is consistently rude is NOT the "alpha dog", as many people assume. The true top dog never starts fights or trouble because they are secure in their knowledge that they are the top dog and have no need to do so. It is the insecure dog that starts trouble with others. Such dogs benefit from down-stay and sit-stays (to build their self-confidence, self-control, and your leadership) and from strict handling in pack order for everything from what order dogs go through doors, get in and out of the car, who gets food and treats in what order and who is allowed to ask and be granted permission to get on furniture (never the lowest dogs until they have demonstrated obedience to house and pack order rules and consistently exhibit good behavior, and never at all if they are fosters). Watch for lower dogs to show deference to higher ones: when the higher dog looks directly at the lower dog, does it turn it's face away, lick it's nose, yawn, and/or blink? Does the lower dog make way for the higher dog? It's important to enforce polite behavior and insist that even when excited, they control themselves (if they cannot step apart and calm themselves on their own at your command, you must separate them yourself) because if you do not assume the role of a leader and enforce these things, your dogs must, and you do not want them to do that. Do not expect or allow your top dog to have to correct misbehaving lower dog--it is YOUR job to watch for misbehavior and redirect and correct as needed.
These tips do not replace professional assistance from a trainer/behaviorist who practices modern, positive-based, fully-humane methods.
