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WANTED: calmness around other dogs

Marrowshard

Well-Known Member
I will not blame anyone if this gets a lot of TL;DR BUT ... for anyone who didn't get the intro to Oscar a number of months ago, here's some backstory:

Oscar is our adopted (almost) 4-year-old EM. He's 141lbs. as of his last vet visit so he's a bit smaller than standard. He ended up at the local no-kill after his owner in the Twin Cities ran afoul of the three-strikes "loose dog" thing. Oscar escaped his fence once to harass a couple of dogs being walked past. He reportedly "pinned" one of the dogs but didn't bite either one. The dogs' owner recognized him, grabbed his collar, and put him back. Strike One. Then, the owner patched his crap fence with - I kid you not - two broken bicycles. Obviously, it wouldn't hold a dog so Oscar got loose again. Did no damage, chased no one, but ran around a bit. Strike Two. He and next-door neighbor's instigator black lab got into a tussle (again, crap fence) which ended with the lab taking a small amount of damage. No stitches, just antibiotics, but it was enough. Strike Three. The three events took place over a span of three years. After the last incident, the city ordered him either euthanized or removed from the city. Since the owner had just moved to the city to take care of his mother, relocation wasn't an option. The shelter owner was present at the hearing and offered to take Oscar across the state line and find him a new home.

Fast forward to September ... my husband and I were appraised of Oscar's history but knew he'd grown up with two other dogs (St. Bernard and Pug), cats, and small children so we figured it was a circumstantial reaction rather than true aggression.

So far, he's been a very good dog. He's never tried anything with the cats unless you count persistent attempts to sniff their butts and occassionally knocking them over when barrelling up the stairs. He's been tried on toddlers and young school-aged kids and tends to just lay there being petted. No 'don't touch' spots that we've yet found. Lays still to have his ears cleaned, his teeth brushed, and his nails clipped even when mom misses and has to get the styptic powder.

He's about 50/50 with other dogs. He gets along great with my buddy's black lab (one altercation where both tried to grab the same tennis ball: Oscar got a couple of small cuts on the muzzle and Gauge got two fang marks in the neck) and another's Bichon Frise. A couple of weeks ago, we walked by a house with two young labs at it who barked up a storm then rushed at us. Oscar stood his ground and let them approach, and wild butt-sniffing ensued when the two labs showed instant submission (rolled over, tails tucked, licking mouths). The next-door neighbor's three dogs (Beagle, Bichon, Mini Schnauzer) can all run around their yard barking at him and he'll barely look at them.

So why ... WHY does he come unglued when another leashed dog walks by? He used to bark a lot, and we've got him down to just wildly pulling and occassionally hackling. The type or attitude of the other dog doesn't seem to matter. We're not even talking about close-quarter passing, it's opposite-side-of-the-country-road walking. Once it was an extremely sedate hound, another time a tiny little yorkie-thingy that was ignoring us, and just Monday a Lab who was just an interested in us and had to be wrestled a bit.

I've tried re-focusing him on me with treats (ignored), using a variety of leash/collar/harness types (neither worse nor better), making him Sit while the other dog passes (temporary deafness), and dragging him past as though I didn't notice the other dog at all (which results in an outwardly hilarious display wherein he tries to go through my legs and backwards). We've been doing a lot of obedience ground work, focusing on off-leash commands. He's now gotten pretty good with the basics plus Hold, which is our new one meaning 'stop and turn'. I almost had him recalled from 40 feet away when he tried to follow my husband's car down the driveway. He had been at a dead run, then paused, looked back at me, and continued at a trot. He knows what the command means, we're just still hammering in that it has to be followed all the time.

Anyway ... long-winded, I know. He's not aggressive to other dogs. If he was, no amount of yanking on the leash would make him stop and he wouldn't just silently pull towards the other dog. I also don't get the feeling that it's strictly "I wanna go see the other dog!". He's incredibly dominant and I know I'm biased but I think we've made a lot of progress with him considering the jail-breaking he was used to getting away with. I don't think the situation is dire enough to warrant a professional trainer, but he needs to learn to control himself when passing a strange dog.

I'm looking for suggestions, hopefully from someone who's dealt with the same or similar thing. With everything we've been trying I may be inadvertently confusing him and I'd like to get this deal done. Currently, we walk with only a leash and his usual collar. He's gotten so good at walking on a loose leash at my side and listening to the "Easy" command to slow down and even not trying to chase squirrels while leashed that we haven't had to use anything more severe.

Like I say, he's made a lot of progress, but he's a mastiff and listens when it suits him sometimes. I want to go to PetSmart without being shamed by my dog!

~Marrow
 

bahamamarg

Well-Known Member
OMG - how funny, your story is so similar to us and Dexter - he's almost 4 yrs and I too do not believe he's aggressive. We are probably a bit better in that he does not try and escape and knows that an open door does not mean he can go through? I'm sorry, but I am no help at all but thank you for sharing - we all know we are not alone!!!!
 

ruby55

Well-Known Member
I remember reading about "barrier frustration/aggression" and "leash aggression". Could this be what he's going through?
 

Marrowshard

Well-Known Member
I thought about it being just that he needed to check out the other dog, so (with permission from the other owner, of course!) we tried just gently getting them closer but in a couple of cases Oscar started hackling up more. I admit, I'm also worried that if we get close and he decides he doesn't like the other dog, it'd be all over. Once there was a very noisy pug Oscar was interested in. He wasn't ultra-stressed over it, just pulling a bit and whining with his tail wagging but if I had let him investigate under those conditions and he didn't feel like being friendly, it would be one gravely injured Pug. Sometimes he snarks at the other dog and it's clear he doesn't like them for whatever reason, sometimes he's quietly curious, and sometimes (most of the time) he's got so many signals going at once it's hard to know his intentions.

~Marrow
 

AKBull

Super Moderator
Staff member
Junior acts similar when he encounters a leashed dog at the off leash park. At first he's very curious and wagging, then overly curious, then he can be an a-hole. He's never attacked or anything, but I can see his excitment level going through the roof and it might be a matter of time until who knows what. Since he's def, dumb and stupid in those moments, I have to pull him away.
He only gets like this if the dog in on a leash. Maybe they think the other dog is weak or something?
 

NeoBull

Well-Known Member
Definitely sounds like leash aggression which is a pretty easy fix for most trainers, I can usually get rid of it in about a week. I'd get some recommendations for local trainers and start working on it.

---------- Post added at 02:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:23 PM ----------

I'd start by teaching/training a really solid "leave it" and a really solid "watch me" (he should be able to maintain eye contact for at least a minute, build up to that time slowly though and correct any time he glances away)... work on both of those a lot before applying them to the leashed dog situation. Once he has an awesome leave and watch cue down then i'd move to an nice spot maybe 20 feet off of a popular walking trail and wait for the dogs to start coming. The second YOU see a dog coming (ideally before he does) have him face you and "watch", give him a treat and repeat, correct if he looks away at all, keep the treats coming librally if he maintains the watch... as he gets better move closer to the path.

Hope that all makes sense... and having a trainer help is still ideal.
 

NeoBull

Well-Known Member
I'd start by teaching/training a really solid "leave it" and a really solid "watch me" (he should be able to maintain eye contact for at least a minute, build up to that time slowly though and correct any time he glances away)... work on both of those a lot before applying them to the leashed dog situation. Once he has an awesome leave and watch cue down then i'd move to an nice spot maybe 20 feet off of a popular walking trail and wait for the dogs to start coming. The second YOU see a dog coming (ideally before he does) have him face you and "watch", give him a treat and repeat, correct if he looks away at all, keep the treats coming librally if he maintains the watch... as he gets better move closer to the path.

Hope that all makes sense... and having a trainer help is still ideal.
 

Marrowshard

Well-Known Member
We've been working "Leave It" already ... mostly when he's too focused on something on the ground or slows down to watch a squirrel. We're making definite progress on that one although it still sometimes takes a small correction. As to "Watch Me", we had originally tried to use "Focus", but had trouble getting him to understand what we wanted him to do.
A while back, I took him to visit the shelter we adopted him from and it happened to be doggie exercise time, so we sat in the lobby and watched pairs of all kinds of dogs walk out past us. At first he was an idiot every time, then slowly relaxed and eventually only needed an occassional correction to sit there like a good boy. He even met a hyperactive Chihuahua mix and made friends.
I will redouble efforts to perfect "Leave It" and probably enlist a youtube video of barking dogs to work "Watch Me".

Thanks you for the suggestions! I know he(we) can do this ... will just take time. I'll have to switch out my usual training treats for chunked up Beggin' Strips. Honestly think he'd do anything for artificial baconny-flavored wafers.

~Marrow
 

Marrowshard

Well-Known Member
I don't generally, but training-treat dispensing has been working for getting him to move his attention back to me after minor distractions. When we're walking and he ignores a car driving by ("normal" for him is a slight pull in the car's direction), he gets a quick treat from my pocket without stopping or verbal praise. Same for dogs barking in a yard, etc. There's no command involved, but he's used to seeing a small treat when he's behaving himself.
Have never used a clicker, but I have a habit of snapping my fingers to draw his attention.

~Marrow
 

NeoBull

Well-Known Member
The clicker or marker word is just about taking the guess work out of what we're asking them... when I 1st start on "watch" if the dog gives me half a second of eye contact I can "mark" that event with a quick yes! as soon as it happens... it generally speeds training up and cuts down on frustration, both for us and them.
 

chuckorlando

Well-Known Member
On a leash we use COME ON. It works pretty well. If she stops for any reason I say COME ON. If she dont I give a gental tug and repeat. She usually comes and I then say GOOD GIRL. My comand is always even toned but priase is higher pitched.

I'm working on look now. Kona knows to sit before her food, then wait till I say good girl. I now set the bowl down and stand. Then say LOOK. Even a glance gets a good girl and her food

---------- Post added at 06:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:32 AM ----------

But if mom and Mason are there, it takes real work to redirect here for the first 30min or so. Even a person on a bike across the street she aint happy about and at no time are they allowed to walk in frnt of Kona. Kona wont allow it. In fact when she gets hard headed, I tell the wife to keep walking then turn Konas head so she's see's momma out front kona will break into a run to get back in front. hahahahaha
 

chuckorlando

Well-Known Member
But if mom and Mason are there, it takes real work to redirect here for the first 30min or so. Even a person on a bike across the street she aint happy about and at no time are they allowed to walk in frnt of Kona. Kona wont allow it. In fact when she gets hard headed, I tell the wife to keep walking then turn Konas head so she's see's momma out front kona will break into a run to get back in front. hahahahaha
 

Duetsche_Doggen

Well-Known Member
Sounds like a similar issue with my past dane. He was EXTREMELY dog aggressive, just the sound of dog tags would set him off, even keys. When he would see a dog ears were perked, hackles raised and he was ready for war. This was with any type of dog leashed or not, big or small he didn't care. He also had a fast reaction time, and it came from almost nowhere. He could sitting there next to me and then one split second later he's ready to attack even if the dog 20 to 30 ft away.

The best thing that worked for me was constant exposure to dogs no matter how they reacted to him. Anytime he lunged or attempt to lunge I'd put him in a "down stay" on the spot no matter how close the other dog(s) were. NOT THE ALPHA ROLL but an actual DOWN and don't move until I say so. Eventually with strong OB and trust, after two years he was fine with other dogs, even took him to a dog park a few times. ( though he didn't care for it, lol)

Another important thing is to make sure to get your dogs attention, if your dog is focused on something else and ignoring your commands, then you need to make him listen. Start working on OB with distractions around pretty soon, he'll look to you.
 

Kelly

Well-Known Member
That's a good post Duetsche-Doggen, Im going to copy that and send it to my brother. He has an extremely DA greyhound, but his dog redirects to the handler when he's not allowed access to the dog of his focus. Soooo fun to walk!
 

Duetsche_Doggen

Well-Known Member
Thanks Kelly :)

Yes redirected aggression is another issue to watch out for, luckily Duke didn't have it. If he did he'd be wearing a muzzle.
 

Marrowshard

Well-Known Member
We did our first round of "Watch Me" training today. Just a really easy introduction. Had treats on me, would make him stop ("Hold"), then return to me ("Come"), then "Sit", then "Watch Me" to focus on me. Being the first day, I looked like an idiot holding a treat between my eyes, but it got his attention. Any movement to take the treat or breaking the Sit meant starting over. Did it randomly throughout our whole walk. It'll be a while before I know if it's working, but so far so good.
@Neo: I assume I need to think of a word that I don't already use. "Yes" doesn't get used often ... do you find it's worth it to charge and use a clicker or does a single word do pretty much the same thing?

~Marrow
 

bahamamarg

Well-Known Member
We've been working on getting a dexter to look too. We use the word 'look' then give a treat. 4 months ago he would hardly look at us, now hes holding it for a min - don't you find that a minute seem s REALLY long when you are timing it!!! We do it at random times during most walks. he's more nervous at night, so i have him sit at the path and just wait it out, he does not get to move until he looks at me - that seems to be working so far. I'm hoping that all this will help us distract him when he wants to go at someone on the beach and help him feel more confident in us as leaders.
 

NeoBull

Well-Known Member
We did our first round of "Watch Me" training today. Just a really easy introduction. Had treats on me, would make him stop ("Hold"), then return to me ("Come"), then "Sit", then "Watch Me" to focus on me. Being the first day, I looked like an idiot holding a treat between my eyes, but it got his attention. Any movement to take the treat or breaking the Sit meant starting over. Did it randomly throughout our whole walk. It'll be a while before I know if it's working, but so far so good.
@Neo: I assume I need to think of a word that I don't already use. "Yes" doesn't get used often ... do you find it's worth it to charge and use a clicker or does a single word do pretty much the same thing?
~Marrow

I don't usually bother with a clicker, I've always just found it easier to use a word since training happens everywhere all the time, I charge the word like you would a clicker. If you don't charge the word it won't really have any meaning for them.

As far as teaching watch I like to teach actual eye contact and not just having them look at a treat, it's such a pain to get from that back to eye contact. I'll see if I can find something online that explains how I train it well so I don't have to type it all out!

---------- Post added at 07:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:24 PM ----------

OK, found it... this is going to be long:
WATCH

Dog finds partner’s face and holds eye contact for 10 seconds with no more than two voice cues. No body language or touching other than looking at the dog.

DISCUSSION:
Sure, you can train a dog to do just about anything without her actually looking at you, but once you've worked with a dog who gives you eye lock, you won't want to go back.

EASY BEGINNINGS: First, of course, you need to get the dog looking at your eyes. It'll probably be just a glance. Click that! If you're working with a small dog or puppy, sit on the floor or otherwise get down to her level. Make strange noises with your mouth. Hand Zen frequently gets a good glare from the dog. Do just about anything you can think of to get her to look at your eyes BUT do NOT put a treat in your hand and then put the treat near your eyes! That just gets the dog looking at the treat near your eyes. In your training life, you'll click the dog a thousand times for looking at your treat (usually by accident). You certainly don't have to reward her intentionally for that behaviour! Rapid-Fire click/treat will also usually result in a glare when you stop.

So, get the behaviour. Just a glance at first, but be ready for it. If you're thinking "Oh, there it is! I have to click!" it's already too late. You'll make mistakes, because her eyeballs are a lot faster than your hand is, but stick with it. Click the glance X20, then ask for more. Some dogs will start locking on to your eyes fairly quickly. For these guys, you can simply wait for a 1-second watch, then 2 seconds, then 3, and so on.

For the ones who decide they're getting clicked for a glance, work it X20, then ask for TWO glances before you click. Pay for two glances X20, and you should be starting to get a longer stare.

PROBLEM SOLVING:

SHE KEEPS LOOKING AT THE OTHER DOGS (OR PEOPLE)!
Start playing this game in a distraction-free place if you have to. The bathroom (working in the bathroom should give you several solitary times each day to work!), the bedroom – put the other dogs and people out of the space. You'll work up to distractions, but don't start that way.

SHE JUST STARES AT MY HAND! Well, good, she's got the "stare" part down pat, now you just have to transfer it to your eyes. Sit quietly and let her stare at your hand. And stare. And stare. Keep your hand absolutely quiet. Sooner or later, she'll give you the "Hey, Stupid!" reaction – "Hey, Stupid! Did you die up there? I'm staring at your hand! Where's my treat?", which is accompanied by her looking at YOU instead of your hand. Click!

Another way to get around this problem is to hide your hands behind your back. If the dog follows your hands, sit in a corner so she can't. Be happy – when you've successfully transferred her attention from your hands to your eyes, she'll be VERY good at looking at your eyes!

ADDING A CUE: Add a cue (Watch me!) when you've got at least 10 seconds of solid eye contact.

CONTINUING EDUCATION: Once she has the idea of holding contact to get the click, you can start increasing the time. Count 1/click. 1-2/click. 1-2-3/click. And so on. When she makes a mistake, start back at ONE second. Watch your criteria here. You want total eye lock. If she glances away, start again.

Build up the time she can hold contact, and start adding distractions. The first distraction I use is just wiggling my fingers. Do this when you're sure the dog understands that she's being paid for holding eye contact. When she sees your hand move in the corner of her sight, she'll glance over at it. Just keep moving it and do nothing else. Pretty soon she'll remember what game she's playing and bring her eyes back to yours. Click! Next open your hand near her, then close it if she comes for the treat (hand Zen), and wait for eye contact. If you've been sitting down, stand up (remember to make time easier when you make distance harder). Work in different rooms and with different distractions.

The first thing I do in ANY new situation is sit down and start working eye contact. By doing this, I'm reminding her of many things I want her to know: a) she CAN work in new places, b) she's not alone in a new place, I'm with her. She can stick with me and we'll be safe together, c) she has to give me what I want before she gets what she wants, even in wonderful new places. This is especially important for an enthusiastic greeter to know. She can't just bomb into a new place and take an hour to use up all the wonderful sights and smells before she comes back to me. I'm FIRST. I get attention, or we don't play here at all.
 

NeoBull

Well-Known Member
OK, found it... this is going to be long:
WATCH

Dog finds partner’s face and holds eye contact for 10 seconds with no more than two voice cues. No body language or touching other than looking at the dog.

DISCUSSION:
Sure, you can train a dog to do just about anything without her actually looking at you, but once you've worked with a dog who gives you eye lock, you won't want to go back.

EASY BEGINNINGS: First, of course, you need to get the dog looking at your eyes. It'll probably be just a glance. Click that! If you're working with a small dog or puppy, sit on the floor or otherwise get down to her level. Make strange noises with your mouth. Hand Zen frequently gets a good glare from the dog. Do just about anything you can think of to get her to look at your eyes BUT do NOT put a treat in your hand and then put the treat near your eyes! That just gets the dog looking at the treat near your eyes. In your training life, you'll click the dog a thousand times for looking at your treat (usually by accident). You certainly don't have to reward her intentionally for that behaviour! Rapid-Fire click/treat will also usually result in a glare when you stop.

So, get the behaviour. Just a glance at first, but be ready for it. If you're thinking "Oh, there it is! I have to click!" it's already too late. You'll make mistakes, because her eyeballs are a lot faster than your hand is, but stick with it. Click the glance X20, then ask for more. Some dogs will start locking on to your eyes fairly quickly. For these guys, you can simply wait for a 1-second watch, then 2 seconds, then 3, and so on.

For the ones who decide they're getting clicked for a glance, work it X20, then ask for TWO glances before you click. Pay for two glances X20, and you should be starting to get a longer stare.

PROBLEM SOLVING:

SHE KEEPS LOOKING AT THE OTHER DOGS (OR PEOPLE)!
Start playing this game in a distraction-free place if you have to. The bathroom (working in the bathroom should give you several solitary times each day to work!), the bedroom – put the other dogs and people out of the space. You'll work up to distractions, but don't start that way.

SHE JUST STARES AT MY HAND! Well, good, she's got the "stare" part down pat, now you just have to transfer it to your eyes. Sit quietly and let her stare at your hand. And stare. And stare. Keep your hand absolutely quiet. Sooner or later, she'll give you the "Hey, Stupid!" reaction – "Hey, Stupid! Did you die up there? I'm staring at your hand! Where's my treat?", which is accompanied by her looking at YOU instead of your hand. Click!

Another way to get around this problem is to hide your hands behind your back. If the dog follows your hands, sit in a corner so she can't. Be happy – when you've successfully transferred her attention from your hands to your eyes, she'll be VERY good at looking at your eyes!

ADDING A CUE: Add a cue (Watch me!) when you've got at least 10 seconds of solid eye contact.

CONTINUING EDUCATION: Once she has the idea of holding contact to get the click, you can start increasing the time. Count 1/click. 1-2/click. 1-2-3/click. And so on. When she makes a mistake, start back at ONE second. Watch your criteria here. You want total eye lock. If she glances away, start again.

Build up the time she can hold contact, and start adding distractions. The first distraction I use is just wiggling my fingers. Do this when you're sure the dog understands that she's being paid for holding eye contact. When she sees your hand move in the corner of her sight, she'll glance over at it. Just keep moving it and do nothing else. Pretty soon she'll remember what game she's playing and bring her eyes back to yours. Click! Next open your hand near her, then close it if she comes for the treat (hand Zen), and wait for eye contact. If you've been sitting down, stand up (remember to make time easier when you make distance harder). Work in different rooms and with different distractions.

The first thing I do in ANY new situation is sit down and start working eye contact. By doing this, I'm reminding her of many things I want her to know: a) she CAN work in new places, b) she's not alone in a new place, I'm with her. She can stick with me and we'll be safe together, c) she has to give me what I want before she gets what she wants, even in wonderful new places. This is especially important for an enthusiastic greeter to know. She can't just bomb into a new place and take an hour to use up all the wonderful sights and smells before she comes back to me. I'm FIRST. I get attention, or we don't play here at all.

---------- Post added at 07:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:39 PM ----------

And now "Hand zen" which is basically what most people call "leave it":