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Going rate for a behaviorist?

Oscar'sMom

Well-Known Member
He sounds like he needs more work on place. If you have not started to use corrections like a no and whatever type of correction he respects, then you need to start. Obviously, he doesn't hear you when he's in the zone nor are you strong enough to hold this dog back so you need to either work hard on following through with your commands or crate him. It's much easier and cheaper to crate a dog. The important thing is to stop his brain from escalating. That means correcting, redirecting when he's watching. When he's watching, the bomb is already ticking. My dog is one of those that cannot watch. He must be redirected, corrected or actively doing a command and I'm not one to jump first on using physical corrections, but in this case where the dog is a danger to other people and to himself, then the behavior needs to be shut down immediately and yes I would do the same to my own dog.
Yea I agree. At the time..we thought we were doing well. Since his last incident when he tried to get at a friend of ours...we have worked like crazy on place. He stays in his place with us until released. We don't have tons of guests over...but in the last few weeks we've had a couple people come to the door and if he gets up and barks..we say place and he goes to his place. He will stay while we answer the door and until whoever leaves the door (nobody has come in that wasn't family since last time and this time).
 

Oscar'sMom

Well-Known Member
A good trainer can help you with all of this. Sometimes we humans need an observer to tell us what *we're* doing wrong. Timing a correction, if you are going to use one, is very important. So is timing a reward. Sometimes it takes someone with experience to watch and tell us when we missed a sign that our dog was going to behave a certain way, or if something in our body language is off - or numerous other things that we humans do that make it harder to communicate with our animals.
We are set up to have someone come in March 11. We are also on the cancellation list of something opens up sooner. Our schedule with work is very limited, so we will see when that time comes!
 

Oscar'sMom

Well-Known Member
$700 for the rest of his life sounds pretty inexpensive to me? I paid almost $1,100 for 6 private in-home training sessions that lasted 60-90 minutes each. I assume a behaviorist would be even more expensive because there are usually specific, often more serious issues that need to be dealt with, and owners are usually more desperate for help and more willing to pay. I did look into behaviorists at one point, and the one I was considering was $600, but only included an evaluation at his facility and follow up phone calls for two weeks. So $600 for a year or $700 for a lifetime is a deal if she can actually help you and Oscar.
Fingers crossed
 

Oscar'sMom

Well-Known Member
I didn't mean for the "we're busy with work" to sound like I don't care. It's just what works with both our schedule and hers. As I type that he is in his place. I actually have a couple of friends coming by to pick me up but I plan on putting him in the bedroom and letting him out on a leash IF he calms down or maybe not at all.
 

Hector

Well-Known Member
I was facing Oscar with my side to them and I turned to look...good call. I didn't think about that. When would have been a good time to release or should I expect him to not bolt if I move my gaze. I kept my hand in he position I give him the stay command in..just flat plan facing him.
A dog should not break a command just because you're not looking at him. That would be ridiculous. You release him when you know he's not going to go after someone. You can also put a slip leash on him and release him and walk around and then immediately place him. It doesn't have to be a dead set place whenever people come over. You can always release him as long as you have control of him and then place, release, place and then long place or release. Whatever you want to do. If that's too hard for the dog, then just put him away until you're in a better position to train. When you are not sure of what the dog will do, eyes must be on him at all times and give him lots of feedback. If you can, put his place mat in a gated room.
 

Boxergirl

Well-Known Member
I didn't mean for the "we're busy with work" to sound like I don't care. It's just what works with both our schedule and hers. As I type that he is in his place. I actually have a couple of friends coming by to pick me up but I plan on putting him in the bedroom and letting him out on a leash IF he calms down or maybe not at all.

It didn't sound like that at all. We can all only do what we can do. If there's no work, then there's no money for a trainer. Honestly, my post wasn't really directed toward you, but more a general comment. So many people lurk on the boards and I think that it's important to point things out that they may not know. Such as why having an extra pair of experienced eyes to watch is so beneficial as opposed to only using video in certain circumstances.
 

Oscar'sMom

Well-Known Member
It didn't sound like that at all. We can all only do what we can do. If there's no work, then there's no money for a trainer. Honestly, my post wasn't really directed toward you, but more a general comment. So many people lurk on the boards and I think that it's important to point things out that they may not know. Such as why having an extra pair of experienced eyes to watch is so beneficial as opposed to only using video in certain circumstances.
Of course! Without a doubt we just need a professional eye on it. I think maybe it's not beyond our control and ability to fix now but I would much rather shell out money to have a pro help me before it becomes a bigger problem...or something we can't control..or outside of the house...etc
 

karennj

Well-Known Member
I keep a leash at the door just in case people show up unexpectedly. I have had too many instances of having to hold the collar and finally learned it is just easier to keep the leash at the door. When someone knocks we have a door command, which means they have to go down the hall a bit and stand and wait to be released. If the person is just stopping by the dog generally don't get released at all. If the person is staying for a bit or coming in then I leash Bear and release him only once he is totally calm. Because he is still young and excitable he can quickly ramp back up so the leash helps significantly with that. Since you have had issues I absolutely would have him leashed at all times if someone is over and he is not crated. Even if my dog was pretty solid with the place I would still leash them if a bite was possible. You need to keep your guests and him safe. Bear still can be a bit too much sometimes with kids so if a friend of my children is over, Bear is either behind a gate or leashed and tethered to me. Just a precaution.
 

Max's mom

Well-Known Member
We used trainer/behaviorist...lots of certifications, independent practice. No meds, no aversive techniques. I use prong, she didn't particularly like it but was willing to work with us. 600 for 7 visits then 100 per visit after. sometimes visit was 1-2 hours. She worked with me. teaching me to work on reading body language and obedience. It has helped us.
 

Oscar'sMom

Well-Known Member
We used trainer/behaviorist...lots of certifications, independent practice. No meds, no aversive techniques. I use prong, she didn't particularly like it but was willing to work with us. 600 for 7 visits then 100 per visit after. sometimes visit was 1-2 hours. She worked with me. teaching me to work on reading body language and obedience. It has helped us.
Great to hear! I am hopeful!
 

Oscar'sMom

Well-Known Member
I keep a leash at the door just in case people show up unexpectedly. I have had too many instances of having to hold the collar and finally learned it is just easier to keep the leash at the door. When someone knocks we have a door command, which means they have to go down the hall a bit and stand and wait to be released. If the person is just stopping by the dog generally don't get released at all. If the person is staying for a bit or coming in then I leash Bear and release him only once he is totally calm. Because he is still young and excitable he can quickly ramp back up so the leash helps significantly with that. Since you have had issues I absolutely would have him leashed at all times if someone is over and he is not crated. Even if my dog was pretty solid with the place I would still leash them if a bite was possible. You need to keep your guests and him safe. Bear still can be a bit too much sometimes with kids so if a friend of my children is over, Bear is either behind a gate or leashed and tethered to me. Just a precaution.
Good to know. I think I may just always leash him or put him in his place. He's big to other people so it takes them back sometimes and not everyone wants a 200lb dog in your business